Gogarth - Castell Helen...

Dave, Jaimella and I decided to head out to the coast today following a few early rain showers in Llanberis.

We had previously talked about visiting Gogarth's Castell Helen area, and it seemed fitting to head here at the end of our three days.

Quickly gearing up we abseiled the 60 metres to the high water mark, swinging into the stance in the centre of the wall.  From here we climbed 'Lighthouse Arete Direct' VS 4a,4c,4a  followed by 'Rap' VS 4b. Dave is pictured enjoying the exposure on Lighthouse Arete.

Conditions were good yielding good climbing as usual - thanks to Dave and Jaimella for a good three days...

Tryfan Enchainment...

It's been another hot day in Snowdonia today, an obvious time to climb in the mountains.

Keen for a longer mountain day Dave, Jaimella and I decided to head up to Tryfan.  Rather than walking high up on the mountain we decided to start on the Milestone Buttress.  From here we were able to enchain 'Rowan Route' VD before traversing over to the Heather Terrace and climbing the classic 'Grooved Arete' HVD.

A short scramble took us up to the summit of Tryfan before a descent of the South Ridge.  Currently, the mountains here in North Wales are drier than I have ever seen them...

Multi Pitch Climbing in Wales...

On Sunday night I made the drive over to North Wales to meet Dave and Jay.  With three days together in Snowdonia we were keen to get out and make the most of it today - heading straight to Idwal Slabs.

Having done a fair bit of climbing on the Derbyshire Gritstone Dave and Jay were keen to swing leads and with this in mind they climbed 'Ordinary Route' (Diff).

This gave us plenty of opportunity to look at multi pitch belays and dealing with stances before scrambling off and climbing the first pitch of 'Faith' (VD).  From here a retrievable abseil took us back to the base of the route just in the nick of time to apply some more suncream!...

Lead Climbing Stanage Edge...

Yesterday was the second of two days training for the 'Not So Trad' club at Stanage Edge.

Having spent the previous day at Burbage North laying the foundations for leading, everybody made quick progress on the crag leading multiple routes.

These club weekends are always great fun and I look forward to meeting the team out on the crag again soon...

Lead Climbing at Burbage North...

I have been out with a group from the Not So Trad Club climbing at Burbage North.

This was the first of two days club based Lead Climbing training.  We spent the day looking at the essential skills of gear placement and belay construction in preparation for pushing out some leads tomorrow.

It's been a hot day in the Peak District today and the best place to be is the top of the crag, taking advantage of the slight breeze.

Sadly, while we were at the crag a Canadian climber fell from 'The Fin Right Hand'.  Although he hit a bouldering mat he knocked himself unconscious briefly.  Thanks to Edale MRT he was evacuated from the crag quickly.

Dave Hormigo and John Allen have also been out with a team from John Lewis Climbing Club at Stanage Edge.  They opted to head up to the High Neb and Crow Chin areas in the hope of finding a little shade(!)

Stoney Middleton...

I have spent the last couple of days course directing a Single Pitch Award Assessment course for Peak Mountain Training.

During the two days we have managed to visit Stanage Edge, Windgather Rocks and the Climbing Works in Sheffield.  This allowed us to explore and examine all the syllabus areas required by the award.

This evening I was able to hit the rock with Steve and Simon climbing at Stoney Middleton.  The crag was busy, possibly due to the publication of the new Peak Limestone guide by Rockfax, or maybe just the warm weather.

The guidebook might be new but the routes were the same as ever - hard!  Particularly with weakened arms from a season of skiing.  Despite this we climbed Windhover (E2) and Double Scotch (E2) both giving a good work out.

North Wales Cragging and Completion Seminar...

I have spent the last few days over in North Wales doing a little climbing following the ski season.

It's been great to get on some proper Welsh trad routes particularly on Holyhead Mountain, Gogarth and Rhoscolyn - some of my favorite crags outside the mountains.  This was a great opportunity, but one of the main aims of the week was to attend the British Mountain Guides Completion Seminar.

This was the final hurdle to getting full IFMGA Guide status and a copy of the Mountain Guide Diploma certificate.  So after, approximately four years of training and assessment on rock, snow, ice and ski (not to mention at least fifteen years experience to get there) Mark Walker and I received our badges from Tim Walker (BMG President).

It would easy to see this as the end of the process, but of course it's not!  It's the start of the ability to guide worldwide in alpine terrain and enjoy some great trips to some awesome places with some fantastic people....

AMI Workshop, Problem Solving...

Mark and I made the short drive down to Matlock today to meet up with Will.  The aim of the day was to revise and practice 'problem solving' techniques as required by the MIA syllabus.

We spent the day looking at a variety of up, down and sideways maneuvering on the crag practicing, hauling, lowering as well as counter balance and traverse rescues.

As usual Wild Cat was a good venue and quiet with just one other party ticking the classics of 'Lynx' and 'Cat Walk' among others.  Thanks to Will for agreeing to act as a body for the day...!

AMI Workshop, Critical Incident Analysis...

Another day at Stanage Edge today, this time for an Association of Mountaineering Instructors (AMI) workshop.

As part of Instructors continuing professional development they choose to attend a number of workshops over a set time period.  Today, we spent our time reviewing some of the statistics relating to single pitch climbing accidents to identify any current trends.

This allowed us to then examine coaching strategies to address the greatest areas of risk.  Conditions were good with a cool breeze, ideal for the grit.  As a result the crag was particularly busy...

Stanage and Froggatt...

It's been a couple of changeable weather days in the Peak District with high winds and heavy showers.

Despite this Di, Nik and I have managed two full days of climbing at Froggatt and Stanage Edges. It was much colder today as the frontal system passed through swinging the wind around to the North West.  As a result it was bitter at the crag (as pictured!).

The friction was however unsurprisingly good, and there were plenty of folk out enjoying the fast drying gritstone.  Including fellow MIC and sponsored Edelrid team member - Adam Hughes...

ML Training and Climbing at Stanage....

It's been a good day out in the Peak District today with good gritstone climbing conditions.

Paul Knowles was out at Stanage Edge (pictured) with Sarah and Mark for an introduction to climbing on the gritstone edges.

I started the day over in Hope, acting as Course Director for a Peak Mountain Training Mountain Leader Training Course.  Following a brief introduction to the course we decided to head straight up on to Kinder Scout for some navigation practice and skills coaching.

On the moor the temperature was ideal for hill walking, and despite the cool northerly breeze and associated snow flurries (really - there were), the conditions were brilliant....

Technical Advisor Work, Rockcity...

Since arriving back in the UK it's been a busy couple of days.

First up on Saturday was a visit to the Rockcity Climbing Centre in Hull, to deliver some site specific training.  This training will form the basis for the delivery of climbing sessions for wall and visiting staff.

We spent the day looking at how to deliver safe and interesting climbing sessions in an indoor wall combined with some coaching tips.  This is the first course where we have been able to make use of the new purpose built bouldering facility - Bloccity.  If you are up that way, check it out...