Saturday, February 18, 2012

Dorsal Arete - Stob Coire nan Lochan...

John and Tony have joined me for a few days here on the west coast of Scotland to develop some skills for more technical 'mountaineering style' routes.

With a return to winter conditions today we decided to get straight into it and make an ascent of Dorsal Arete II in Stob Coire nan Lochan.  Using the approach to revise crampon and axe use we decided to adopt a 'one tool rule' policy for the route itself.  (John and Tony are pictured on the top).

There were some strong gusts today, but nothing like those forecast and snow falling for the duration.  This combined with the fact that Stob Coire nan Lochan is often more sheltered than expected resulted in a good day.

Conditions in the corrie appear good with a team on 'Scabbard Chimney' V,6 and Bruce Poll on 'Crest Route' V,6.  The area around 'Chimney Route', 'Tilt', 'Inclination' and 'Unicorn' looked particularly white.  For a more amenable grade it would be worth checking out 'Moonshadow' IV,5 at the moment.  This is one of the finest grade IV pitches in the corrie but rarely gets climbed (even when there are loads of folk on Twisting Gully!)...

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