Saturday, August 13, 2011


With a good forecast on Wednesday and Thursday the Martin Moran Mountaineering team decamped to Zermatt and made the approach to the Hornli Hutte.

Here we had one aim, an ascent of the Matterhorn via the Hornligrat. Steve and I set off just after 4am well positioned in the rush of headtorches making their way up the initial fixed ropes.  The ridge is quite snowy at the moment with crampons required well below the Solvay Hut.

The summer has been caracteristed by stormy and cool weather with north westerly winds and many routes are in snowy condition.  On Thursday, there were three teams on the North Face of the Matterhorn with more massing at the Hornli Hut.  Many of the other North Face routes in the Swiss Valais are in good condition e.g Lenspitze North Face, Dent Blanche North Face etc etc..

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