I was working for British Guide Kevin O'Neale (Mountain Vision) with a group from John Lyons School, Harrow.
With other British Guides Phill Thomas and Johny Baird we headed up towards the Weissmies and the Triftgletscher for an "ecole de glace". The following day we made the exciting ascent to the Mischabel Hutte at 3340m, a steep and interesting ascent equipped with sections of ladder and cable.
From here we hoped to ascend the Ulrichshorn 3925m, but a combination of altitude and high winds resulted in all three teams retreating. Other parties turned around from the Nadelhorn 4327m and the Lenzspitze 4294m (the north face of which looks in good condition).
The medium range forecast suggests that colder conditions will dominate in Europe with northerly winds, perhaps making for ideal classic north face ticking conditions...