Monday, November 24, 2008

Snotty's Gully..

Andy Turner and I have just returned to Kathmandu following an attempt on Phari Lapcha (6017m) in Nepal's Khumbu region.

Sadly, this attempt was repelled by difficult mixed ground, compact granite and unconsolidated snow at approximately half height. We were forced to switch objectives opting to repeat* the Bracey-Bullock line "Snotty's Gully". This ca 1000m ice gully lies just to the right of our intended line on the subsidary peak Phari Lapcha West (5977m).

Leaving Gokyo at 5am on the 17th November we climbed to approximately two thirds height with difficulties upto WI5 and M5+. After an open bivvy, the final water ice pitches led to a descent to the Upper Machermo Glacier and the relative comfort of Machermo village on the evening of the 18th.

We would like to congratulate Jon Bracey and Nick Bullock on what we consider to be an excellent line which may well become a Khumbu classic. Good effort.

"Snotty's Gully" ED1 WI5 M5+ c1000m Phari Lapcha West (Dawa Peak) 5977m

The expedition would like to acknowledge the generous support of The Mark Clifford Award, The British Mountaineering Council, The Mount Everest Foundation and The Alpine Club. As well as the continuing support from: Mountain Equipment (Andy), Haglofs (James), OMM, Camp Four, Lyon Equipment and CauseandFX

*Note: This is probably the third ascent (2nd British) as far as we are aware. The route being climbed by Norwegians Halvor Dannevig and Nils Nielsen last autumn.

Wednesday, November 05, 2008


Andy and I arrived in Kathmandu on Sunday the 2nd and have spent a day or so organising visas and our climbing permits ready to visit Phari Lapcha. We are now waiting to get the go ahead to fly out of Kathmandu to Lukla.

Unfortunately, we spend six hours in the airport yesterday grounded due to the weather. Fingers crossed we might be able to get out today.

Feel free to get in contact if you are interested in winter courses, as I have already had some early bookings. I will be in contact at the end of the month..