Friday, September 26, 2008

Peak District Climbing Coaching..

Dave Hollinger has been out on the grit with Steve today visiting Stanage Plantation and Burbage Edge.

They have done quite a variety of activities today, concentrating on bouldering and routes to improve climbing technique. In addition they also did some more focused coaching sessions on specific skills both technical and personal.

In North Wales Rachael has just completed her Mountain Instructors Award Assessment (see previous post). Congratulations to Rachael and Simon who both put in a significant amount of preparation.

Monday, September 15, 2008

Improvised Rescue at Wild Cat..

Rachael, Bob and I were out at Wild Cat Crags near Matlock today, practising some improvised rescue and problem solving.

Rachael is currently preparing for her Mountain Instructors Award (MIA) assessment, and Bob acted as a willing casualty allowing me to set some realistic scenarios (thanks Bob). All candidates are expected to cope well with a variety of problems and nasty emergencies on multi pitch crags.

During the day we revised assisted hoists, 3:1 and 5:1 hoists, escaping the system, lowering past a knot, and traverse rescues as well as counter balance abseils. Rachael coped with this well, and we all have our fingers crossed for everybody doing assessments next week (Simon also has his coming up - see previous posts).

Katherine, who also joined me for a days improvised rescue practice, recently passed her MIA and has written a very honest account on her site Love to Climb. Well done Katherine.

Thursday, September 11, 2008

Cwm Idwal Scrambling..

Simon and I have been out in Cwm Idwal today, scrambling in preparation for his Mountain Instructors Award (MIA) Assessment. We spent the day doing 'North West Face Route' (2) and ascending and descending 'Cneifon Arete' (3s).

This allowed us to revise the skills of shortroping, short pitching, and lowering in the context of a mountain scramble.

There has been some high winds and heavy showers during the day, although the situation should improve a little for the weekend..

Wednesday, September 10, 2008

Gogarth and Holyhead Mountain..

Simon and I escaped Snowdonia today and headed out to the coast. We visited Castell Helen at Gogarth, climbing a slightly damp 'Lighthouse Arete' (VS 4a,4b,4c,4a).

Later in the day we visited Holyhead Mountain to practice some problem solving and improvised rescues. Simon is pictured escaping the system with anchors out of reach.

It looks like another wet day for North Wales tomorrow, with improving weather over the weekend..

Tuesday, September 09, 2008

Milestone Buttress..

Simon and I were out on Tryfan's Milestone Buttress today revising some of the skills required to teach on a multi pitch crag.

We made a damp ascent of 'Rowan Route' (D), as well as visiting Tremadog later in the day.

Monday, September 08, 2008

A dry day at Tremadog..

Simon and I have been out at Tremadog today enjoying the first dry day in a while. We spent the day doing some personal climbing in preparation for Simon's Mountain Instructors Award (MIA) Assessment.

We took the opportunity to review stance management, gear placement and abseil descents while climbing 'Christmas Curry' (S), 'One Step in the Clouds' (VS) and 'Grim Wall' (VS).

Sunday, September 07, 2008


It's been another wet weekend for much of the country, with showers here in North Wales. Pete Rowlands and I decided to head to the overhanging 'Vector Buttress' at Tremadog in search of dry rock.

We were rewarded with generally dry rock, although there were some more persistant wet streaks. This allowed us to climb the first two pitches of 'Vector' (5a,5c), and the first groove pitch of 'Void' (5b), followed by some abseiling.

Tomorrow looks like it could be one of the better days this week. Fingers crossed..

Friday, September 05, 2008

A wet week..

Well it's been a wet week in the Peak District and North Wales over the last few days. It looks like there could be some more wet weather to come..

It has been a busy week regardless, with a visit to North Wales on Monday to climb in the Llanberis slate quarries and at Tremadog. Both of these venues dry quite quickly and often mean a salvaged day. Tuesday, resulted in a visit to Tremadog again before retreating back to the Peak District.

Ian Loombe and Matt Abbot snatched a route on the Gogarth Main Cliff on Thursday, climbing the devious 'Resolution' (E1).

This weekend I will be heading to the indoor wall. For those commited to climbing in all weathers I would check out Stoney Middleton, Raven Tor (if you are strong) and Willersley Castle Crag...