Sunday, July 27, 2008

Warm weather in the Peak District..

It has been very warm over the last few days, with the crags busy at the start of the summer break. Stanage, Burbage, Froggatt and Birchen Edges have been busy on most days during the last week.

Ben Hull and I climbed at Stanage on Tuesday, waiting until late evening when it cooled down. This is often a good idea, as all but the easiest routes feel a couple of grades harder in warm and humid weather. We did a few routes including the often avoided classic of 'Providence' (E1), this snappy little E1 eliminate requires confidence in your feet and the small slopey handholds.

Wednesday saw Simon King and I make a fleeting visit to Stoney Middleton climbing 'St Peter' (E1) and 'Bingo Wall' (E2).

At the moment it is hot enough to warrant visiting those north facing crags such as Wimberry, Kinder's northern edges and the bays at Millstone. Other good choices include Chee Dale, and Staden Quarry if you are keen to escape the heat.

Monday, July 21, 2008

Lead Climbing Coaching at Froggatt..

Duncan, David and I were out at Froggatt Edge today during a day of private instruction and lead coaching.

It has been a warm day with plenty of sunshine, making it a nice day to be out rock climbing on the grit. After looking at some belays Duncan and David made light work of 'Slab Recess Direct' (HS), 'Gamma' (VD), 'Slab Recess' (D), 'Joe's Slab' (5c), 'Heather Wall' (S), 'Sunset Slab' (HVS) and 'Sunset Crack' (VS).

Sunday, July 20, 2008

Lead Climbing at Stanage..

Pete, John and I were out for our second day of a Lead Climbing Course in the Peak District today. We chose to visit Stanage Edge to put yesterday's skills in to practice.

Pete and John led a number of routes with a top rope back up, and also climbed a number of others independently. This demonstrating their sound grasp of belay and runner placement.

Unfortunately, another climber was injured falling from 'Martello Buttress' (VS) not far from us. He was evacuated with the help of Edale Mountain Rescue Team (EMRT) and the Air Ambulance. We hope he makes a swift recovery.

Saturday, July 19, 2008

Lead Climbing at Birchen Edge..

Pete, John and I visited Birchen Edge today to look at the essential skills for Lead Climbing.

There were a few showers during the day, although the crag was drying quickly in the breeze. We still managed to get plenty of practice in with belays and gear placement ready for some leading tomorrow.

The crag was busy with another team doing their Single Pitch Award (SPA) Training with Pete Stacey, and lots of independant climbing pairs. Between us we climbed 'Emma's Temptation' (VS), 'Camperdown Crawl' (VS), 'Trafalgar Crack' (VD), and 'Fo'c'sle Crack' (S).

Sunday looks like a much better day, with some perfect gritstone conditions forecast..

Sunday, July 13, 2008

North Wales Multi Pitch..

Ian, Paul and I have been climbing with Jeiff, Jane, Pandie, Richard and Andrew this weekend in North Wales.

Despite some heavy rain on Saturday morning the crags soon dried to give some excellent conditions. The obvious venue for the first day was Tremadog, with it's ease of approach, an abundance of classic routes and fast drying dolerite.

Here we climbed some classic routes including 'Christmas Curry' (S), 'One Step in the Clouds' (VS), 'Yogi' (VS), 'Shadrach' (VS) and 'Grim Wall' (VS).

Sunday resulting in the group going to seperate venues including Dinas Mot, Carreg Wastad and Craig Ddu. Jeiff and I climbed 'Direct Route' (VS) and 'Western Slabs' (VS) on "The Mot" enjoying good dry rock apart from the odd avoidable wet streak!

It looks like another good day of dry weather will be required to dry out the more persistant damp areas. But all in all not bad for summer in North Wales..

Wednesday, July 09, 2008

North Wales..

The weather has been changeable for the last few days in north wales with frequent showers. Despite the rain students from New Mills School have been climbing on Little Tryfan today. Early indications suggest better conditions for the weekend..

Saturday, July 05, 2008

Blustery showers in the Peak..

It's been a blustery day here in the Peak District with some significant showers. Despite this there have been some fantastic sunny spells between the showers, with the gritstone edges drying almost instantly.

Paul Knowles has been out with Teresa and Steve at Birchen Edge today on the first of two days private instruction. They have covered plenty of ground: leading, rigging top ropes and belays etc as well as getting some climbing done.

I also managed a quick soloing and bouldering session at Burbage North before returning to Sheffield. The rock was totally dry but the odd puddle was a bit of a clue to this mornings weather. The forecast for tomorrow looks to be somewhat better, so fingers crossed.

I am off to North Wales on Sunday, working with White Hall Centre who are doing an away course with New Mills School. Following this, I will be Multi Pitch climbing with the Climbing and Mountaineering Sports Club from John Lewis Partnership...

Thursday, July 03, 2008

Stoney Middleton..

Dave Hollinger and I visited Stoney Middleton's Windy Buttress this evening. Conditions were good and we had the crag to ourselves, an all too frequent situation at Stoney these days.

We climbed 'Aurora Arete/Tiger Trot' (HVS) and 'Windhover ' (E2), the latter of which is now missing the spooky bent over peg at the top. It must have taken one lob to many!..

Wednesday, July 02, 2008

Chee Dale..

I was down in Chee Dale today, which was in good condition despite the rain showers this afternoon.

The warm weather of recent weeks has resulted in all of the persistant wet weeps drying, the whole valley is dry! Most of the crags are well chalked including 'The Spider' the F8a super route on Plum Buttress.

Plum Buttress, Moving Buttress, Runyons Corner, Long Wall, Two Tier, Nettle Buttress, The Sidings, Embankment, Max Buttress, Chee Tor and the Cornice are all dry. The Nook is still wet as usual and will require some more warm weather before it dries out..