Sunday, June 29, 2008

Birchen Edge

Paul Knowles was out at Birchen Edge with Jeremy and David building on many of the skills practiced on Saturday.

It sounds like they had a full day with plenty of climbing, bouldering and skills training, including some leading. All this despite some showers during the day.

Simon and I visited the middle grade sport climbing venue of Giggleswick South, near Settle in North Yorkshire. Unfortunately, a heavy shower stopped play at about mid afternoon. Despite this we climbed a number of routes including the classic 'Black Swan Rising' at F6a+. This is well worth a visit alone, although be careful going for the third bolt, you could deck out if you missed the clip. More details here in the ROCKFAX database.

Saturday, June 28, 2008

Resin to Rock at Stanage Edge

Paul Knowles was out with Jeremy and David today doing a Resin to Rock course. The weather was much better than in recent days, although increasingly windy as the day went on.

Jeremy and David climbed a number of routes up to VS, and are keen to look at some Lead Climbing skills tomorrow. Burbage North was also busy with quite a few teams out climbing and bouldering.

Further to the west Edale and Buxton MRT's attended a job on Kinder Scout, assisting a female walker with a lower leg/knee injury. She was evacuated by RAF Sea King helicopter to Sheffield.

Friday, June 27, 2008

Stoney Middleton..

The last few days have seen frequent showers in the Peak District. Despite this there has been a good breeze for most of the time, resulting in fast drying conditions on the grit.

Simon and I headed to Stoney Middleton today to find some shelter in the bays around the 'Minus Ten Wall'. This area is great in the rain being steep and overhung by trees. It's also a good workout, so definitely worth a visit in showery weather.

Rubicon Wall, Millstone and Lawrencefield are also top spots if you are committed to getting something done. Both the Mountain Weather Information Service (MWIS) and the Met Office are suggesting patches of rain and light showers on Sunday. Fingers crossed though, I'm sure there will be plenty of action on the gritstone and limestone crags this weekend..

Saturday, June 21, 2008

Unsettled Weather in the Peak District..

The weather has been a little unsettled in the Peak District today with a low cloud base over the northern moors. This has made for a damp feel combined with the rain showers!

Darren has been out climbing today at Froggatt Edge, on a Lead Climbing course with Cameron and Lisa. Froggatt is a good choice in variable conditions as it is often clear of cloud, unlike more exposed venues. This combined with some of the fastest drying gritstone slabs, nearly always ensures that you can get something done. Darren also took the opportunity to cover many of the essential skills required for lead climbing, including gear placement for belays and runners.

The weather forecast appears to be better for Sunday with light showers, although there is a possibility of high winds..

Thursday, June 19, 2008


The weather has been changeable in the Peak District over the last few days, with sunshine and some isolated but heavy showers. There has still been plenty of good weather for rock climbing, with many folk choosing to visit the fast drying gritstone venues or sheltered crags e.g. Stoney Middleton.

Rich Cross and I popped out to Lawrencefield Quarry this morning for a few routes. This sheltered suntrap is often good being out of the wind and dry in all but the worst conditions. 'Great Peter' (E1), 'Suspense' (E2), 'Billy Wizz' (E2) and 'Once Pegged Wall' (VS) gave some good sport.

It looks like the weather may well remain changeable, but most grit crags will dry quickly in the currently breezy conditions..

Monday, June 09, 2008


I have just returned from the Island of Mingulay in the Outer Hebrides, following a week of climbing with friends. The weather was excellent for most of the time allowing multiple visits to Dun Mingulay, one of the biggest crags on the island.

There were at least two other teams on the island, with a French/Portuguese pair repeating perhaps one of the hardest lines in the Hebrides: Perfect Monsters. This large overhanging E7 was established by Twid Turner, Louise Thomas and Gary Latter almost exactly 10 years to the day. The second ascent was completed totally free making it even more impressive.

Other groups were heading out to Pabbay, Mingulay, Sandray and Lewis so I am sure there will be more news from these distant islands. Photos from the week can be seen here.