Up in Scotland Caroline Saunders, Sandy Patterson, Steve Carter, John Ore and Chris Plant spent a day at Moy rock. This 20-25 m crag just north of Inverness is in the process of being developed as a top sports climbing venue.
Chris describes the rock as a conglomerate similar to Dimmings dale in Staffordshire and Rigalos in Spain. Apparently it takes a bit of getting used to, as you pull and stand on rounded cobbles that don't feel that secure. This made on-sight climbing a challenge as the good holds are much more visible on the way down!
There is no definitive guide at the moment but routes were climbed form 5+ to 6c. A great venue and well worth a visit if you are heading north of the border..
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