Sunday, August 26, 2007

North Wales..

Paul Knowles and myself visited North Wales for the Bank Holiday weekend, keen for some route "product".

The weather wasn't quite as good as expected with drizzle and low cloud on Saturday. Despite this we visited Dinas Mot in the Llanberis Pass, climbing 'Diagonal' (HVS) and 'Super Direct' (E1) before nipping over to Clogwyn y Grochan in the evening.

We decided to visit Cwm Idwal on Sunday, climbing a bit of a hybrid of 'Faith' (VD), 'Rowan Tree Slabs (E2 - pictured), and 'Javelin Buttress' (VS).

Elsewhere in North Wales Blair Fyffe and Rob Jarvis have been clearing up in the last few days with ascents of 'Lord of the Flies' (E6) and the respected 'Right Wall' (E5), respectively.

The weather look's good for the next week or so, hopefully there will be more posted here as we make the most of it...

Tuesday, August 21, 2007

Lead Coaching at Stanage..

John, Will and myself have been out at Stanage Edge today brushing up on the techniques required for 'traditional' climbing. The day focused on building good belays, placing sound runners and leading pitches with efficient rope work.

As well as doing all this we managed a number of routes around the 'Plate Glass' and 'Black Hawk' areas. Despite being overcast, and with a fresh north easterly wind, the crag was busy with many teams out and about.

In addition to this Andy Turner has been climbing with Morag this week in the Lake District. As an introduction to both single and multi pitch climbing they have visited; Upper Scout Crag in Langdale, Shepard's Crag in Borrowdale, Long Crag near Wrynose and Raven Crag in Langdale.

The forecast looks promising for the rest of the week and fine into the weekend..

Sunday, August 12, 2007

The Lakes and Wales..

The weather has been fairly settled over the last few days allowing a visit to both the Lake District and North Wales.

Andy Turner and myself visited Gimmer Crag in Langdale on Thursday climbing 'Crystal' (E1), 'Poacher' (E1) and the fantastic hybrid of 'Outside Tokyo/Dight' (E1). Despite the fine weather it was very cold in the shade with a significant breeze.


Andy is pictured on the left with a "bouncing bomb" of rope; a handy trick for throwing the abseil ropes in high winds!

The weather in North Wales was a little unsettled with showers on both Saturday and Sunday giving way to brighter conditions in the afternoon. Despite this Paul Knowles and myself visited Gogarth on Saturday to climb 'Central Park' (HVS) and 'Concrete Chimney' (HVS).

Sunday saw us visit the Creag Pant Ifan area of Tremadog to climb the corner system of 'Barbarian' (E1). This fantastic route did live up to it's name with some tricky overlap sections. For a brief look at what it's all about have a look at the video clip below:





For updated information on routes at Tremadog visit the Tremadog Wiki.

Wednesday, August 01, 2007

Fine weather in Bregaglia..

Neil Stevenson and myself have been away for the last couple of weeks making the best of the weather abroad in Switzerland.

The western alps have been suffering from the same changeable weather conditions that many people have been experiencing in the UK. However, things have improved dramatically over the last week or so with many people active both at home and abroad.

Neil and myself climbed the classic north face 'Cassin Route' on the Piz Badile in Switzerland, and although perhaps not difficult by modern standards, the route still gives some excellent climbing.

Following this we couldn't help but do the 'North-West Pillar of Pizzo Cengalo', this excellent 1100m TD again gives equally fine climbing in it's upper section with a descent into Italy. (Neil pictured on the upper barrel shaped buttress).

Back in the Peak District the improved weather has resulted in many folk heading out to enjoy both the grit and limestone. Over in North Wales the weather has also been changeable, although the keen team of Blair Fyffe and Rob Jarvis seem to have making the most of it, with Rob making an ascent of the respected route, 'Warpath' (E5).

Latest News: James Thacker Mountaineering featured in 'Derbyshire Life Magazine' (August edition). 'Rock Climbing' article by Nik Cook..