Friday, June 29, 2007

Lawrencefield Quarry..

Andy, Lorna and myself visited Lawrencefield Quarry today due to the prevailing showery weather.

Despite a slightly damp start to the day we managed a good tally of routes including most of the lines on the 'Gingerbread Slab', 'Three Tree Climb' HS, and 'Tyrone' VS. Lawrencefield's reputation as a sun trap proved to be correct, the crag being a good choice in the conditions, drying quickly.

A couple of other teams were also making use of the Lawrencefield micro climate climbing 'Great Harry' HVS and 'Great Peter' E1.

The heavy rain of recent days has increased the size of the pool at the bottom of the routes, making access to 'Pool Wall Area' and 'Limpopo Groove' very difficult. I guess you could always abseil in for the full commitment experience!..

Wednesday, June 27, 2007


Dave, Jules, James and myself met up at Stanage Popular End today for some climbing. We managed a few routes while brushing up on some ropework, Jules climbing 'Black Hawk Hell Crack' S (pictured).

The weather was predominately good, with just one heavy shower around lunch time. However, again the windy conditions resulted in the rock drying quickly.

Despite the heavy rain of recent days most peak district venues are in good condition, unlike Sheffield which is still reeling from massive floods. Some of the quarries such as Lawrencefield and Millstone are a little sandy after this heavy rain. This is unlikely to be much of a problem, especially for the more popular routes which will quickly see some traffic.

Saturday, June 23, 2007

Lead Climbing at Stanage..

Dominic, Carol, and myself visited Stanage Edge today in order to run through the essential skills required to lead climbs.

Having spent the day looking at belay selection, runner placement and leading pitches on a top rope we managed to do most of the routes in the 'Plate Glass Slab' area.

The crag was initially quite wet as we arrived but the gentle breeze did what it does best in the Peak: drying gritstone. For most of the afternoon the climbing conditions were great with just the odd shower as forecast.

There were plenty of teams out and about climbing at Stanage and in the Burbage valley, the weather being better than initially forecast.

Tomorrow, looks to be a mixture of showers and light rain, and as such we will be looking for a sheltered venue.

Friday, June 22, 2007

Climbing in the North West Highlands..

Graham Stein and myself have spent the last few days climbing in the North West Highlands. The weather in the far north has been better than elsewhere in the UK, although still changeable.

On Monday we visited Gruinard Crag north of Ullapool, the rock in this area is generally Lewisian Gneiss, famous for it's positive and sound holds. 'Ueejit' E4 and 'The Big C' HVS, being particularly fine pitches.

Tuesday saw us at Diabaig near Torridon for some more fine routes despite some showers. Graham did a particularly good lead on the blandly named 'Route Three' E1, a much better route than it sounds!

With a good day forecast on Wednesday we walked in to the remote crag, Creag Shomhairle accessed from near Durness. Here we set off up the classic route 'Land of the Dancing Dead' E1, completing most of the route before a prolonged rain storm resulted in an abseil descent.

In need of some "product" we went to the sea cliffs at Reiff, which nearly always guarentee good weather. Here we climbed many excellent routes on coarse Torridonian Sandstone including 'Black Magic' VS and 'Empty on Endorphins' E1 (pictured).

The weather looks mixed for the weekend and early next week in the Peak District, fingers crossed for some breaks in the showers..

Sunday, June 10, 2007

Multi Pitch Climbing North Wales

Rob, Steve, Sam, Darren and myself have been over in North Wales for the last couple of days climbing with members from John Lewis Venture Club.

The weekend has been characterised by warm and sunny weather; ideal for multi pitch climbing in the mountains.

On Saturday Rob Jarvis visited Clogwyn y Grochan with Neil and Guy climbing 'Phantom Rib' VS and 'Brant Direct' HVS. Diane, Jane and Sophie visited Milestone Buttress with Jeiff, Hanh and myself climbing at Carreg Wastad.

Sunday saw slightly different teams visiting, Tremadog (Hanh pictured on the 'Micah Eliminate Finish' to 'Christmas Curry'), Milestone Buttress, Clogwyn Bochlwyd, and Clogwyn y Tarw.

North Wales has been busy with many teams climbing over the last few days, with a few notable ascents and failures! Rob tested the fall from the top of 'Resurrection' E4, allegedly about 35 feet while Jude Spanken made a clean stylish ascent of 'Lord of the Flies' E6. On Saturday Dave Macleod may have made the third ascent of 'Trauma' E9 on Dinas Mot (we could see somebody from the other side of the Llanberis Pass).

Thursday, June 07, 2007

Staden Quarry..

Nick Wallis and myself were out at Staden this evening. Unfortunately, the weather wasn't as fine as in recent days, it feeling quite chilly on this north facing crag.

Despite this we managed a couple of routes on the 'Joint Effort Wall', before abseiling off to move the inquisitive cows from near our sacs!

The weather for the weekend is set to be better in the west with overcast sky over the eastern edges, with the possibility of showers on Sunday. For Sam, Rob, Steve, Darren and myself the conditions look promising for our multi pitch climbing course in north wales. Fingers crossed..

Note: We did notice that a large hold has snapped on the route 'Welcome to Hard Times' E3 5c. I am struggling to remember but think this might mean that a crucial wire placement high up is now missing! As such the route may now be nearer E4..