Friday, June 30, 2006

Yesterday resulted in another fantastic evening out on the grit, with many parties out on Stanage. The light wind keeping the midges away. We decided to visit Bamford, which is getting increasingly busy with the new access agreement. 'Randy's Wall' and associated routes had many ascents during the evening, with many people soloing the easier lines. Stanage was also busy with many teams visible climbing at both the 'popular end' and 'High Neb Buttress'. It appears that the restrictions around the 'Rusty Walls' area have been lifted as the Ring Ouzels have fledged. However, its still a good idea to keep a low profile in the area.

The forecast for the coming weekend suggests that the weather will be fine for the duration with the possibility of thunderstorms late on Sunday afternoon. Due to the warm weather the higher moorland gritstone crags such as those on Kinder Scout might be a good bet combined steep well protected limestone. (Photo: Stanage, High Neb).

Saturday, June 24, 2006

Its been a day of mixed weather today with some sunshine and showers in the Peak. This didn't prevent most climbing teams however; the eastern edges being fairly busy. Paul and Dick rattled off a variety of routes at the popular end of Stanage, while Ben and myself visited Millstone. Both crags were in good condition and dried quickly in the breeze.

Friday, June 23, 2006

Another fantastic evening out on the grit. Dan and myself climbed a number of routes at Stanage Edge, including Hargreaves Original Route (VS), and Gargoyle Buttress (VS). Unfortunately, as soon as the sun went down the midges arrived, savaging most climbing teams! Definately worth bringing the insect repellant...

There are still bird restrictions at Stanage around the 'Rusty Walls' area due to nesting Ring Ouzels. Its likely that these won't remain for much longer as the birds are about to fledge. Please avoid the area for the time being.

The weather forecast is looking slightly mixed for the weekend with some showers forecast on Saturday afternoon/evening and on Sunday. There will probably still be plenty to do in the Peak though..

Monday, June 19, 2006

Elsewhere in the Peak on Saturday, Simon and Ben were climbing on High Tor near Matlock. As expected they reported great conditions, with ascents of Lamplight (HVS), Original Route (HVS) and Debauchery (E1). They had the crag to themselves for most of the day, which is all to often the case with Peak District Limestone..

Sunday, June 18, 2006

Introduction to Outdoor Climbing 17th June

On Saturday Roz, Sarah and Naomi joined us for a day of rock climbing on the gritstone edges of the Peak District. We spent the day at the Popular End of Stanage Edge where we started with the classic Leaning Buttress Crack (VDiff). After a quick team ascent of this we headed right to climb Anatomy (VDiff) and Sociology (Severe). We did an abseil after lunch and then headed abit further east to climb in the Plate Glass area. We climbed Plate Glass Slab (VS), Ground Glass (VS), Small Crack (Diff) and finished with Nicheless Climb (S). Amongst all this we also found time to look at bottom-roping, top-roping, coiling climbing ropes, and belaying a leader.

Thursday, June 15, 2006

The Peak District has experienced some heavy rain showers and thunderstorms in the last couple of days. It was about time though; and the unpleasant humid conditions of recent days have improved dramatically. As usual plenty of people have been out and about climbing on the gritstone edges such as Stanage (pictured), Burbage North, Millstone etc.

Currently the forecast is suggesting no real change to the weather for the weekend. Get out there..

Sunday, June 11, 2006

Multi Pitch Climbing North Wales

Another weekend of excellent weather in the Peak District and most climbing venues in the UK. Dan and myself were out multi pitch climbing in North Wales over the weekend. On Saturday we climbed on the East Face of Tryfan, before having a more relaxed day at Tryfan Bach (Little Tryfan) on Sunday. There were many other teams about making best use of the conditions, with a large party atmosphere on 'First Pinnacle Rib' and 'Grooved Arete' (Tryfan).

Most of the other major crags in North Wales have seen plenty of action including a few ascents of 'Right Wall' and an attempt on 'Lord of the Flies' (Dinas Cromlech).

New Gallery images from the Multi Pitch course above can be seen at

Friday, June 09, 2006

Excellent conditions again today in the Peak District, although possibly getting a little too warm for the gritstone edges (Stanage Edge pictured). There has been quite a stiff breeze today, which will no doubt produce cool pleasant conditions in the evening. In these conditions some of the higher moorland edges, such as those on Kinder Scout, are a good place to escape the heat.

The forecast is due to remain largely the same over the weekend with the possibility of some thundery showers on Sunday..

Thursday, June 08, 2006

Introduction to Outdoor Climbing..

On Wednesday plenty of teams were out and about making use of the excellent weather. Dave Hollinger was climbing with Andy and Lorna at Stanage High Neb; they managed a full day of routes as an introduction to the grit. Other teams also visited Dove Dale and High Tor in the evening, where the slight breeze made for good climbing on the harder routes.

In addition I visited the bolted venue of Blackwell Halt in Chee Dale, here the crag is totally dry, but still a little dusty after the rain. A little traffic will soon clear it up. Curbar looked great on the drive back (see picture), although surprisingly there was no one there..

Tuesday, June 06, 2006

Another good climbing day in the Peak District. A few parties have been out and about in the Dales with a number of teams out bouldering at Rubicon in Water-Cum-Jolly. This area is still fairly wet due to the recent high water level, but at a guess, will improve soon. Plum Buttress in Chee Dale is pictured (left). Dave Hollinger and Rich Cross also sneeked a few routes in at Bamford, with the jammming scars to prove it! Despite the slightly greasy conditions on the grit they managed ascents of 'Jetrunner' (E4) and the allegedly brutal 'Undercut Crack' (E2).

Sunday, June 04, 2006

Over the last few days the weather has been fantastic over the majority of mountain ranges in the UK. The later half of the week saw us out and about in North Wales working on a Mountain Leader Training Course. High level camping allowed us to check out the conditions on many of the higher crags, most of which were in good condition. Llech Ddu near the Black Ladders appeared to be drying out despite the rain in recent weeks, at a guess Cloggy will also be coming into good condition.

Parties were also seen climbing on the East Face of Tryfan and on Glyder Fach (pictured). In the Peak District things were quite busy particularly for Simon King and Ben Hull, who climbed VS's on approximately 13 different crags on Saturday.