As planned I joined Stuart MacDonald this morning for a long weekend of skiing with his group of regular clients.
Heading through the Mont Blanc Tunnel this morning the weather was much finer on the other side of the Mont Blanc Massif and we enjoyed some great runs within the Courmayeur lift system and off the 'Arp' via the Col d'Arp.
The snow conditions were good for the most part with some powder and soft snow making for great skiing. Stuart is pictured above on a previous visit to the same area as I didn't take any photos today...
Friday, January 27, 2012
Thursday, January 26, 2012
Col de Fenestral and Vallon d'Emaney....
I have swapped the Scottish Winter season for some Chamonix skiing this week - joining British Mountain Guide Stuart MacDonald for some Aspirancy work in Italy.
With a day to spare, Neil Johnson and I decided to head out for a quick mini tour. The village of Finhaut was our destination, just over the col in Switzerland, where we were keen to check out the area.
From Finhaut we made a fairly hefty ascent to the Col de Fenestral, before skiing the north facing slopes of the Dent d'Emaney (pictured) down into the Vallon d'Emaney. From here a good run down to La Creta and Le Tretien followed...
With a day to spare, Neil Johnson and I decided to head out for a quick mini tour. The village of Finhaut was our destination, just over the col in Switzerland, where we were keen to check out the area.
From Finhaut we made a fairly hefty ascent to the Col de Fenestral, before skiing the north facing slopes of the Dent d'Emaney (pictured) down into the Vallon d'Emaney. From here a good run down to La Creta and Le Tretien followed...
Sunday, January 22, 2012
Curved Ridge, Buachaille Etive Mor...
Scott, Iain, John and Chris along with Matt Stygall and I made an ascent of Curved Ridge II/III,3 today.
Keen to add to many of the skills that we had practiced in previous days we were keen to do a longer route that required us to 'keep the foot down' a little.
Over night a fair bit of fresh snow had fallen, making the initial start to the ridge tricky with delicate climbing in crampons and gloved hands. High up it was blowing hard, moving snow which will contribute to some slab deposits in the odd location.
We shared the route with Keith Ball and Tim Neill from Plas Y Brenin, working with a team from Cotswold....
Keen to add to many of the skills that we had practiced in previous days we were keen to do a longer route that required us to 'keep the foot down' a little.
Over night a fair bit of fresh snow had fallen, making the initial start to the ridge tricky with delicate climbing in crampons and gloved hands. High up it was blowing hard, moving snow which will contribute to some slab deposits in the odd location.
We shared the route with Keith Ball and Tim Neill from Plas Y Brenin, working with a team from Cotswold....
Saturday, January 21, 2012
Ice Factor...
With gales forecast this morning John, Chris, Scott, Iain and I decided after some deliberation to visit the Ice Factor in Kinlochleven.
Matt Stygall had also joined us which allowed a better coaching ratio. Putting this to good use we spent a bit of time looking at some basic ropework before honing our skills on the vertical ice.
With tired arms we also visited 'Pinnacle Buttress' in Glen Nevis to experiment with gear placement and some belays despite the high winds...
Matt Stygall had also joined us which allowed a better coaching ratio. Putting this to good use we spent a bit of time looking at some basic ropework before honing our skills on the vertical ice.
With tired arms we also visited 'Pinnacle Buttress' in Glen Nevis to experiment with gear placement and some belays despite the high winds...
Friday, January 20, 2012
Stob Coire nan Lochan...
I joined Scott, Iain, John and Chris today for three days of mountaineering and an introduction to winter climbing.
Having had the pleasure of working with the team before, we decided to pretty much get straight into the thick of it. Heading into Stob Coire nan Lochan we spent a fair bit of time doing some basic ropework and snow belays - essential skills for the days ahead.
The weather was forecast to deteriorate but just after mid-day the winds were still light. Looking up it was clear that the crowds had cleared from Dorsal Arete (II) so we fired up this in good time. Scott is pictured leading up to the top.
The corrie was busy today with a team's on 'Unicorn' VIII,8, 'Central Grooves' VII,7, and 'East Face Direct Direct' VII,7...
Having had the pleasure of working with the team before, we decided to pretty much get straight into the thick of it. Heading into Stob Coire nan Lochan we spent a fair bit of time doing some basic ropework and snow belays - essential skills for the days ahead.
The weather was forecast to deteriorate but just after mid-day the winds were still light. Looking up it was clear that the crowds had cleared from Dorsal Arete (II) so we fired up this in good time. Scott is pictured leading up to the top.
The corrie was busy today with a team's on 'Unicorn' VIII,8, 'Central Grooves' VII,7, and 'East Face Direct Direct' VII,7...
Tuesday, January 17, 2012
White Shark, Aonach Mor...
With a brief day off today I joined Emma Warren (pictured) and Matt Stygall on Aonach Mor for some ice climbing.
Despite a rising freezing level there is plenty of ice in the main drainage lines with many of the major routes in condition. Accessing Coire an Lochain via 'Easy Gully' we traversed under the crag to the bottom of 'Aquafesh/White Shark' IV,4. This proved to have some good quality ice although reaching the central peg belay is a little thin (although it often is here from what I understand).
'White Shark' is also famous for having a large cornice and today was no exception, although somebody had been kind enough to tunnel through it previously. The belays are well equipped with pegs, allowing a relatively straight forward abseil descent with the addition of some abseil tat.
Here is a brief video clip of Matt Stygall squeezing his 6ft frame though the hole onto the plateau:
[...] Matt Stygall cramming his large frame into a tunneled cornice in the name of the 'traditional scottish mountaineering experience' Route: White Shark IV,4, Aonach Mor. Scotland [...]
Despite a rising freezing level there is plenty of ice in the main drainage lines with many of the major routes in condition. Accessing Coire an Lochain via 'Easy Gully' we traversed under the crag to the bottom of 'Aquafesh/White Shark' IV,4. This proved to have some good quality ice although reaching the central peg belay is a little thin (although it often is here from what I understand).
'White Shark' is also famous for having a large cornice and today was no exception, although somebody had been kind enough to tunnel through it previously. The belays are well equipped with pegs, allowing a relatively straight forward abseil descent with the addition of some abseil tat.
Here is a brief video clip of Matt Stygall squeezing his 6ft frame though the hole onto the plateau:
[...] Matt Stygall cramming his large frame into a tunneled cornice in the name of the 'traditional scottish mountaineering experience' Route: White Shark IV,4, Aonach Mor. Scotland [...]
Monday, January 16, 2012
Edelrid Sponsorship...
It's great to announce that I will be joining the Edelrid team for 2012. I am looking forward to using Edelrid products on the hill over the course of the year...
As a brand Edelrid have been around for a long time and have a great pedigree. I certainly have fond memories of the brand as my first half rope was an Edelrid product - which saved me from a number of "whippers" on the Derbyshire Gritstone!
More recently Edelrid have developed an exciting range of ice tools, crampons and harnesses along side their extensive range of ropes. I will also be joining Di Gilbert and Adam Hughes (both Mountain Instructors) who already use these products.
Here is a brief promotional video or take the time to check out the Edelrid site using one of the links above:
As a brand Edelrid have been around for a long time and have a great pedigree. I certainly have fond memories of the brand as my first half rope was an Edelrid product - which saved me from a number of "whippers" on the Derbyshire Gritstone!
More recently Edelrid have developed an exciting range of ice tools, crampons and harnesses along side their extensive range of ropes. I will also be joining Di Gilbert and Adam Hughes (both Mountain Instructors) who already use these products.
Here is a brief promotional video or take the time to check out the Edelrid site using one of the links above:
Curved Ridge, Buachaille Etive Mor...
Apologies for the lack of updates. I have been staying in Lagangarbh under Buachaille Etive Mor for the last couple of days.
Si had managed a flying trip from the Peak District which had luckily coincided with fine settled conditions and excellent visibility. Following the thaws of previous days, the remaining snow cover is solid neve.
We decided to do 'Curved Ridge', setting off early negotiating frozen streams and verglass low down. Fairly soon we needed crampons and were able to climb the lower section in gloves. Finally, the top section was covered with great neve making for swift progress and a very atmospheric ascent.
High up on Ben Nevis and Aonach Mor there are plenty of ice routes in condition, too numerous to mention here. 'Indicator Wall' is quite icy so I would be surprised if Aonach Beag wasn't in good condition - particularly the reliable line of 'Stand and Deliver'....
Si had managed a flying trip from the Peak District which had luckily coincided with fine settled conditions and excellent visibility. Following the thaws of previous days, the remaining snow cover is solid neve.
We decided to do 'Curved Ridge', setting off early negotiating frozen streams and verglass low down. Fairly soon we needed crampons and were able to climb the lower section in gloves. Finally, the top section was covered with great neve making for swift progress and a very atmospheric ascent.
High up on Ben Nevis and Aonach Mor there are plenty of ice routes in condition, too numerous to mention here. 'Indicator Wall' is quite icy so I would be surprised if Aonach Beag wasn't in good condition - particularly the reliable line of 'Stand and Deliver'....
Emmerdale...
I have been away for a few days working in Yorkshire doing some safety rigging work for ITV's 'Emmerdale' with Paul Moores and Rory Gregory.
No spoilers here I am afraid, but watch the show in about 5-6 weeks. Calder Valley Search and Rescue Team are pictured about to conduct a crag rescue...
No spoilers here I am afraid, but watch the show in about 5-6 weeks. Calder Valley Search and Rescue Team are pictured about to conduct a crag rescue...
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